Guinea Pig Cages - Making the best choice

Guinea pigs need to be kept active. They are also great fun and making a cage with challenges for them is a huge part of it. To choose a cage, a few things need to be considered:

• Indoor or Outdoor: Really a matter of preference and/or part of the size consideration but outdoor ones have to be more robust and secure. Also a new guinea may have been used to being indoors so may need some acclimatisation indoors before being housed outside.
• Size, and Closed or Open Top? As with many pet enclosures, a simple rule applies, “the larger the better”. This is true for both the floor area but also to a degree for height. If closed at the top, then more tiers can be included, while if open the walls have to be “non-climbable” and more objects will be needed inside but not so close to the sides that they can act as jump-off ramps if the guinea is that way inclined.
• Expansion Plans: If you’re planning to have more than one furry friend then the ability to expand the cage might be a consideration. Families can be housed, but competing males, if you can manage them, will require more space. Cages of the grid variety that can be clipped strongly together are designed for this purpose, and as added insurance a good stock of cable ties or suitable clips should be purchased. Of course open tops aren’t a good choice if Tiddles the cat can get in…
• Material: Both metal wire and plastic types of cage are available, but if choosing wire an appropriate plastic-coated version is advisable as guineas like to chew, and again the plastic coating won’t do them any good at all if they can bite it off and swallow it. The same considerations apply to toys and tunnels etc but usually these are of the right material when bought from any reputable supplier.
• Toys and interior components etc: The fun bit! Again the best material for ramps and floors etc is plastic, both for safety of your pet and because generally it is easier to clean.

Enjoy the ensuing fun!

German Shepherd Ears: Care and Treatment

German Shepherd Dogs (GSDs) are very healthy dogs but like most breeds susceptible to particular ailments. A German Shepherd’s ears are one of her strongest attributes but need to be kept clean and can be prone to infections.
The usual sources that should be kept in check to prevent potential inflammations are:

• Long hair can get into the ear both through growing from around the back of the ear and shedding.
• As German Shepherds like to brush past bushes and through grass when out walking, all kinds of detritus, especially seeds, get into their ears.
• Occasionally, overactive glands in the ear secrete the equivalent of ear wax which can get trapped quite deep in the ear.
• Water from swimming or bathing often lodges for a short time, despite the dog’s efforts to shake it out vigorously.

The usual telltale sign of ear irritation, in the majority of cases usually of a minor nature, will be your German Shepherd trying to remove the irritation herself. At this point it is always worth checking for and if necessary removing anything obvious. In my experience, if nothing can be seen, it can be left for a short time and see if a problem recurs, because in many cases it will clear itself.  

Cleaning the ear & removing detritus:

Keeping your pet’s fur trimmed around the outer ear, preventing matting below the ear as well are good precautions. Don’t cut the fur too short or it can very occasionally become ingrowing, creating further problems.
Dealing with something inside the upper ear must be done with great care and I would strongly advise not probing too much in your dog’s ears. However, in an adult dog, the ears are quite large and a gentle wash with a soft cloth around the top of the ear or even using cotton buds on areas you can clearly see, providing you make no attempt to go beyond that, will resolve the majority of cases. Mixing a very low concentration (say about 5%) vinegar with water makes a solution that will usually help.

If your pet continues beyond two to three days to show signs of discomfort, then a visit to the vet is in order.

In my 40 years’ experience with dogs including long-haired German Shepherds, despite many instances of ear irritation, using the above practices has meant it has never escalated. However, this is one of those ailments that is worth being aware how to deal with in these easy stages, but like most, at some point it’s time for veterinary expertise.

For excellent advice on dog health click here.

Interested in training your German Shepherd?  Click here. 

Koi Fish Ponds - Dealing with Overpopulation

Overstocked and overpopulated koi fish ponds are very harmful to the fish. Too many fish will degrade the water quality very quickly. This will hasten the onset of disease amongst the koi.

Koi grow relatively quickly and to a large size. They spawn and fertilize usually in the spring of each year. You can sometimes detect when breeding is going to start:

• in male koi, white swellings similar to pimples appear near the  gills and along the front edges of the pectoral fins (the fins at the lower front of the koi),
• in females, their bodies swell as they fill with eggs ready for laying.

There is no way to stop the reproductive cycle but at least you can be better prepared.

The problem of overpopulation comes down to removing the babies or fry, which can be accomplished using the following approach:

1. As soon as you see that spawning has occurred, stop feeding the koi for about three weeks and let nature take its course. Basically, the adult koi will eat the fry. While this may seem cruel, it is natural and allowing it to happen allows the health of the remaining population to be maintained.
2. As an option, removing the fry very early can be considered but as well as being difficult to do in practice in any case as they will usually be inaccessible if not almost invisible, it will be hard to find an outlet through which to relocate them.
3. If the fry grow to a size where they resemble koi, then the adults will no longer see them as insects/food and at this point the fry have to be removed for the benefit of the group.
4. Local pet stores or zoos may take them off your hands.
5. If there is a koi society in your area, they may be the best source of a new home for them.

Keeping an increased number of koi in the same environment can really damage all of them, so, cruel though part of the early steps may seem, it is one of the best options available.

Dogs In Cars

Dogs need water and ventilation when travelling and possibly food as well depending on the length of the journey. Breaks should be made in the journey for the dog to stretch its legs and relieve itself. Dogs are best familiarised with car journeys from a young age. Initially, sitting with your dog to reassure it, hold it securely and keep it calm is a good idea.

Some dogs are particularly susceptible to motion sickness when travelling, and many grow out of it. It is possible to get travel sickness pills for pets that are suitable with vets advice, but the human versions are definitely not recommended, as the dog’s balance and digestive systems are different to ours.

Again, sitting with the dog can be helpful. Some dogs actually travel better in cages, possibly because it resembles a den, though the cage needs to be large enough for the dog to be able to stretch out and move around in. Putting a light cloth over the cage can be helpful to dogs that still suffer from travel sickness. Taking the dog out in the car shortly after being fed is obviously not to be recommended.

Although I have seen pet seatbelts recommended, personally I don’t think they are a very sensible idea. Every dog I have had has been fairly calm in the car, in some cases after a few journeys with someone sat with the dog in the back seat. After that, the dogs got used to sitting or lying down without any issues. If there is going to be a problem with your dog moving around the car, then it should either be:

• in a large enough cage for travelling
• partitioned off in some other way, or
• not taken in the car at all

Some dogs can become territorial about the car, barking at anything that moves outside. Some owners install blinds in the car windows, but the best solution in practice is to make a habit of sitting with the dog and bring it under control by making it clear that this is poor behavior. Eventually this spell will usually pass, though it may take time with severe cases.

Most pet owners know that animals should not be left in a vehicle with no ventilation, especially in sunlight.

Staffordshire Bull Terrier - Health Care

Staffies make great pets, with bundles of energy, zest for life and outgoing nature.
They need training properly when young, for training tips click here.
By buying your Staffie from a reputable source, everything will have been done, through breeding and early checks, to avoid any breed-specific genetic disorders, especially eye-related diseases.

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier is an exceptionally hardy dog and generally less likely than many breeds to suffer from health concerns. Its short coat means that as well as being easy to groom, any lesions can be seen easily and the sheen of the coat is a clear general indicator of your dog’s health.

General care for terriers has already appeared here in a previous post “Terrier Care”.

Some parts of the general advice are more relevant than others with Staffies:

1. Worms and fleas as a pup: Keep a close eye on this. There shouldn’t be problems but Staff pups are prone to roll around on grass, thereby picking them up from unclean areas, or run through and under bushes that can house mites and occasionally fleas left by other animals.
2. Teeth: Cleaning teeth is important. It will not welcomed by the Staffordshire, so its a good idea to get them used to it as early as possible.
3. Nails: Another part of the routine that Staffs will resist, so with our dog I have found that, coupled with plenty of street-walking, a small nail file on rough edges to help prevent splitting is so much easier than clippers.
4. Exercise: A must for Staffs, and from about six months of age, they benefit from plenty of it. A half-hour stroll around a few streets per day will simply not be anything like enough, so something more rigorous is advisable.

Cat Flea - Control and Treatment

Fleas can affect any cat, even clean ones, as they are transported from other cats. In some circumstances, fleas can be picked up outside the house and transported inside. Cats can acquire cat fleas, dog fleas or human fleas. Fleas bite cats and infect the skin, most commonly causing the cat to scratch a great deal; by that time the flea eggs have possibly already hatched to create an infestation.

Cat ticks are similar to fleas in that they are blood suckers, but ticks live permanently on the cat unless they either grow large enough to drop off or they are killed through treatment. A common method of cats acquiring ticks is from hedgehogs.

Prevention is easier than cure

The most effective method of fighting off fleas and ticks is a preventive one, usually by applying a liquid treatment to the cat’s neck on a monthly basis. Such treatments kill any flea or tick as soon as it appears.

Looking for Fleas or Ticks

If you are not using a preventive treatment, the next best measure is to check your cat regularly for signs of fleas, using a flea comb. It is unlikely that you will see a flea unless there are already a number present. Fleas and ticks appear as tiny black or dark brown insects. The more usual sign of fleas are their droppings  which are dried blood, either on the skin or in the comb. 

Ticks present themselves as raised spots on the skin, best found by running hands over the skin. The tick’s legs will often be visible protruding from the spot - the legs may be moving!

Cat fleas are usually found around a cat’s nose, eyes or ears or often in the warm spots where the cat’s legs meet its body.

Removing Fleas or Ticks

Ticks are best removed by a vet, who will best know how to ensure that the head of the tick is removed from the cat’s skin.

Getting fleas and ticks under control will involve using treatments of the preventive type. Depending on the scale of the infestation, in escalating levels then flea collars or flea baths would then be used. It is fairly common once a cat is infested to have to apply spray or powder to the cat’s bedding and any soft furnishings including chairs and beds in your house. In extreme cases a flea or tick “bomb” can be used on the house but this requires a 24-hour period during which any pets, including cats, will have to be absent.

Playful Pet Cats - Abyssinian, Somali and Sorrel Cats

Abyssinian cats are one of the oldest cat breeds, thought to date back to ancient Egypt. The Abyssinian is a very playful and unusually affectionate cat that actively seeks human company. It has short hair that requires little grooming. Since the 1960s, other similar breeds have become officially recognized, including the longer-haired type, the Somali cat. The Sorrel Somali refers to a popular coloured breed.

All these breeds are very attractive, smaller yet well-proportioned and generally well-behaved cats as pets, especially if they are not kept indoors all the time, as they love to explore their surroundings, are highly active and enjoy climbing.

Three aspects are worth noting about the natures of these cats:

1. They tend not to be overly fond of other cats so are best kept in pairs, possibly threes at the most. The Abyssinian in particular often gets on well with dogs in its household.
2. They need stimulation to help exercise their naturally high level of curiosity. Hence toys are useful, especially for the Somali, though the toys need not be anything special; some could be as simple as a cardboard box or a paper bag.
3. They often only behave badly if left alone, so should at the very least have some form of suitable companion if their owner can not avoid leaving them for any length of time.

As a result of their natural characteristic traits, these cats are actually amongst the most trainable and will benefit from any encouragement to learn simple tricks such as fetching objects and toys. They are very affectionate, especially in comparison to other cats. Given their high activity level and playful nature, they are among the most enjoyable pet cats.

German Shepherd Coat - Care & Grooming

German Shepherd coats have two layers, more pronounced in the long-haired variety. The inner layer is dense and quite soft to keep your dog warm whilst the outer, more coarse and longer layer serves to keep bushes and other objects away from the interior.

The sheen of the coat is a good, visible indicator to your dog’s health. Grooming and brushing are almost secondary to maintaining the coat’s condition through a good diet. Sources of high protein and high fat, the latter through a good-quality kibble are best. The prime source of protein should be meat in the form of beef, chicken or lamb. German Shepherds will eat and benefit from vegetables such as carrots and small amounts of greens but these should be in kept in moderation for the GSD as its origin is primarily carnivorous.

Brushing your German Shepherd should be done at least twice per week and depending on the type of coat, it’s best to use a range of brushes, ranging from the metal rake type and good quality stiff brushes to finer ones with a small pair of round-edge scissors in reserve to cut out any mats that form, especially near the ears and lower sides of the face in long-haired varieties. Mats in the coat itself will be found more easily by initially brushing against the direction of the fur. Whilst most brushing is done in the fur’s directiopn, this will more often than not cover small mats as they are forming.

Bathing your German Shepherd is needed to reduce odours and especially after swimming, but must not be overdone as this will reduce the natural oils essential to the coat condition. Depending on the variety of your dog and the thickness of its coat, a little trial and error may be required to find the right shampoo to use, even amongst good quality ones or dedicated dog shampoo. I found with the long-haired GSDs I had that a baby shampoo worked very well, used sparingly on  some occasions depending on the state of the coat. In all cases, it is important to ensure that the shampoo is thoroughly rinsed out, or dandruff and temporary deterioration in the coat will occur.

Leopard Gecko - Care And Keeping

The leopard gecko is fairly easy to keep and a very good choice for keepers who are new to lizards or any form of reptile.

Male leopard geckos usually get quite aggressive with each other so that the recommended arrangements are one male plus a pair or group of females, or housing only females in the terrarium. There are variations on this but they are not particularly advisable for inexperienced keepers.

You can identify the sex of leopard geckos by:

• stronger build in a male’s appearance
• males are have a thicker base to their tail, caused by two visible small lumps underneath the base, and larger pores in this area than females

A large terrarium is best for a group of geckos as they are highly active at times and a larger space reduces the likelihood of squabbles over territory. The terrarium does not have to be high as geckos are not great climbers; their feet are not as well equipped for it as other lizards.

A good terrarium for geckos contains:

• a dry base, usually sand but gravel or bark are sometimes used
• a damp area, usually moss in a tray that is kept damp to facilitate egg laying
• flat rocks that geckos can rest under safely
• heat using a lamp and an under-floor heated pad placed at one end of the tank
• a water tray

The temperature required for geckos is around 90 degrees fahrenheit in the daytime, reducing to 68 degrees at night.

Be aware that leopard geckos are particularly quick to shed their tails as an escape mechanism from predators and though the tail will grow back it is very rarely as well-formed as the original so if trying to handle these lizards, try to avoid touching their tail.

Leopard geckos also shed their skin but will eat the shed skin. Their normal diet is insects and an adult will eat a lot. Baby mice will also be consumed plus the occasional sliced fruit treat.

Healthy leopard geckos are very clean reptiles but their droppings should be removed regularly to reduce any risk of infection.

Lizard - Care and Keeping

Lizards make entertaining, slightly unusual and low-maintenance pets.

Even though not all the vast range of lizards can be kept as pets, there are still many types to choose from and research is advised before a prospective keeper makes their selection.

A few points to get you started:

• Lizards are best obtained when young. Adult lizards, particularly the larger ones, develop their own characters and can be unsociable. As a large lizard can be six feet long and quite strong, it makes sense to have one that is used to having people around. The easiest way to ensure this is to train one yourself from young and get it used to feeding and cleaning routines, being handled, etc.
• Lizard cages usually need to have some height as most lizards enjoy climbing, and the larger the cage, or terrarium, then the better. A larger space, with different shelters and more than one feeding area also reduces the likelihood of squabbles between individual lizards.
• Most lizards are territorial, even small geckos, and male lizards are usually highly competitive and aggressive with each other about food, shelter and females. A sensible arrangement for housing more than one smaller lizard, relevant to most types, is to start with one male and two females. Aside from the size constraints, most large lizards are solitary animals and are kept as single pets.
• Lizards are generally very clean pets and usually but not always odour-free. Their food is often live insects or baby mice, but there are significant variations and some are plant-eaters.
• Most lizards need to be kept in a warm environment, often akin to a desert climate so heating, usually spotlights plus underlying heater pads, will be required.

Make sure your research includes breeding characteristics, which do vary, so that you can decide from the outset how best to keep these fascinating creatures.

Bird Talk - How to Achieve It

A common reason for keeping a bird as a pet is to try and teach it to talk. Some types of bird are better than others, with the mynah bird and the African Grey parrot high up the list, but a lot of birds will learn to talk if trained patiently, especially if from young. You could take the easy route and buy one that already talks but then it may say things you are not especially fond of and in some cases may not pick up new words as readily, at least for a while, from you as his new teacher.

The best way to teach a bird to talk is to work directly with him. Start with simple words or phrases, and from as young an age as possible. Always use the same, calm tone of voice and repeat the word everyt time you deal with him. Birds seem to react well to words with the letter R in them, e.g. pretty bird. A higher tone than normal helps avoid bass tones in your voice, which some birds seem not to learn so easily from.

You may find after a short time that the bird is sitting seemingly making noises under his breath and this is usually a sign that he is practising the new sounds prior to trying them out loud. That’s a good sign; a bad practice is to swear or show too much emotion in your voice as the bird will inevitably pick up on it and you will find he suddenly starts repeating words you didn’t want him to. Should this be the case, to dissuade him ignore him completely and only praise him or give him lots of attention when he uses the words you prefer. This actually works in many cases.

If the bird doesn’t take to speaking, whistling is another alternative, from which the bird will soon pick up whole songs or melodies.

Chinchillas

Chinchillas can be expensive to buy but make very friendly and very clean pets. They do have special requirements in some areas, for example:

• Chinchilla Cage
• Chinchilla Diet
• Chinchilla Handling
• Chinchilla Care

Nocturnal with finely attuned hearing, chinchillas tend to be wary and can become stressed by any sudden changes in their immediate environment. Kept in an environment where they feel secure, they make excellent, friendly pets and will live for around ten years and sometimes much longer as pets.

Chinchilla Cage

Chinchilla cages need to be large as chinchillas like moving around, jumping, running and climbing at night. Sheleves and platforms plus thick tree branches bought from a pet shop avoid any risks of infection. Sycamore and apple tree branches are both very suitable for the purpose.

The cage will need to be cleaned weekly, and a solid cage base is to be preferred, covered in wood shavings, again supplied from pet shops. Chinchillas often soil the same area of their cage. Baking soda can be used on that area of the floor lining to help keep it clean.

Chinchilla Diet

Chinchillas need to be fed on special pellets designed for them, supplemented with fibre provided by hay or alfalfa which can be put on shelves around their cage rather than on the cage floor where it will become unhealthy for them. Apple in small pieces and one or two raisins serve well as treats fopr chinchillas.

Chinchilla Handling

Chinchillas will grow to like handling very much if familiarised with it from young. Approach chinchillas slowly and make no sudden movements as it can alarm them and if panicked and cornered may bite. They should be held carefully but firmly supported from underneath so that they will stay in position and feel secure. When your chinchilla is used to this, it provides an ideal opportunity to check for any signs of ill heakth. The chinchilla’s fur should be thick with no sign of patchiness though some colour varieties exhibit different hues across their coat, and the chinchilla’s body should feel firm.

Chinchilla Care

Having other pets such as cats and dogs in the same house as a chinchilla is generally too stressful for the chinchilla and should be avoided.

Chicnhillas keep themselves very clean when they are active and healthy, but a chinchilla comb should also be used regularly. They should also be allowed to use a dust bath every two to three days for a short time before removing the bath from the cage. The dust is a specific formula usually derived from volcanic ash, which dries the fur of excess grease and helps the chinchilla look after itself more easily.

Chinchillas breed less than other rodents and their gestation period is longer. Baby chinchillas are born live and well-developed, similar to guinea pigs. Overfeeding them when young can kill them; half the amount fed to adult chinchillas is generally recommended.

Siamese Fighting Fish - Breeding and Aquariums

Betta Splendens, also known as the Siamese Fighting Fish, is one of the most popular varieties of the betta fish group. As a labyrinth or anabantoid fish, it is able to breathe normal air and can be observed coming to the surface and taking breath on occasion.

Male betta splendens have to be kept separately from each other as they will sometimes fight to the death, though often just aggressive displays are made rather than engage physically. When kept separately, a male that sees its reflection will often act aggressively by flaring its fins out as large as possible and almost “squaring up” to the image.

Females can be kept with other fish but care is needed as their long colourful fins are often a target for other types of fish of an aggressive nature and this often leads to stress in the betta that in turn leads to disease and/or discoloration.

Betta splendens are bubble-nesters. The male betta creates a nest of bubbles under which the male and female will mate by wrapping their fins around each other. This is done in stages, around 15-20 eggs at a time and the process can take two hours. If eggs fall out of the nest either at this stage or later, both fish, but more usually the male, will collect them and put them back in the nest.

Keeping Siamese fighters ideally involves using separate tanks for the male and when the female is ready for breeding and full of eggs, insert her into the tank in a jar or display her in another tank alongside as this encourages the male to build the nest. He often accompanies this with a display of both his fins and sometimes flamboyant manoeuvres to her. It is often best to separate them after mating as they sometimes revert to aggression at that stage, though not always.

Aquariums to house betta splendens should contain plants to house the nests and be large enough to accommodate what can often be large nests. The water in each aquarium will need to be warm and clean, especially when breeding occurs and large broods can be hatched. The incread population will require good filtration despite their air-breathing abilities. Male fry will need to be moved within six to eight weeks to prevent fighting.

Budgie Aviary - Setting Up

Budgies are such an interesting pet that many keepers decide to keep more than one and possibly progress into breeding. To do this an aviary will be required. Setting up a budgie aviary is not especially difficult but a few pertinent tips might help save you time and money.

A budgie aviary usually contains:

• A budgie shelter for the pet birds to roost and feed
• The budgie room, mainly for breeding purposes
• The flight, where the budgies stretch their wings and fly
• A porch, as a two-door safety precaution to prevent budgies escaping

You will be hoping to keep your budgies stress- and disease-free if you want to enjoy your hobby without setbacks, so a number of measures help reduce the risks when setting up your aviary:

1. If converting a shed into an aviary, every component will need to be thoroughly cleaned. You will also need to make it escape-proof and secure from cats and mice,e tc. The latter is usually accomplished by mounting the aviary on low brick walls.
2. Concrete floors, sloped away from the sheltered areas to aid drainage, are easiest to keep clean.
3. The mesh for the sides of the aviary will have to be small enough to prevent budgies escaping. An often-overlooked risk is that a budgerigar might stick its head through the mesh and get stuck. Sharp edges also need to be removed to prevent injuries to the budgies.
4. Perches are best placed far enough away fr0m the sides of the aviary to avoid feathers, especially tails, being damaged. Perches and breeding boxes are best placed at the same height as those nearest to them to avoid fighting and stress among the inhabitants. Budgies seek to occupy the highest positions.

As well as the normal equipment for feeding and watering, cuttlebones, etc., toys are very appropriate, even for aviary budgerigars. However, internal plants are a waste of money as budgies will destroy them. The aviary can be finished off by adding plants around the exterior but care in selection and placement will be required to avoid the risk of infection to the inhabitants of your aviary.

Freshwater Angelfish - Care and Keeping

Freshwater angelfishes are a very popular tropical fish, being both attractive and graceful to observe, generally peaceful and non-destructive. Keeping a group of angelfishes in an aquarium just for them is highly recommended. This gives them the opportunity to exhibit their behavior without them either being hassled by tiger barbs nipping their fins, or adult angelfish bullying other species.

 A few points about keeping freshwater angelfishes:

• Plants with long trailing leaves are eminently suitable for angelfish to rest in and weave gracefully through.
• Angelfish will actually eat food directly from human fingers; they can be fed commercial foods or small livefoods.
• Avoid bright light in the angelfish aquarium. Some types of angelfish can lose their color in prolonged light and they are at their best when the contrasting dark bands and lighter colorations can be seen clearly.
• Angelfish sometimes eat their eggs and the young fry. This often happens the first time around with young adult angelfish. They will usually spawn again quickly and more successfully, but you may choose to remove the fry or separate them as soon as they look strong enough. It is a natural behavior and will usually right itself as the new parents mature.
• Keep any surface that might be chosen as an egg-laying spot away from heat sources as angelfish eggs will not hatch if exposed directly to heat.
• Angelfish can be observed mouthfighting as part of their mating rituals.
• Partial water changes are best when cleaning the water for angelfish. The water should normally be slightly acidic and heated to around 80 degrees fahrenheit.

Gerbils - Care and Keeping

Pet gerbils are active, inquisitive and amusing pets. They also create little or no odour, can be obtained in different colours as there are around 80 different species, and are less nocturnal than most pet rodents.

Gerbil Care

Best housed in small groups, the ideal pet gerbil group originate from the same litter, which reduces territorial squabbles which gerbils can be prone to. Gerbils can be handled but preferably only for short periods or they will normally try and escape because they like to be on the move, exploring their surroundings.

An important point is not to handle their tails, especially near the tip. The outer skin is sheddable and is also shed to escape predators, so it can easily break off. As the tail is often used to as a counterbalance during the gerbil’s natural athletic activity, it is best left as long as possible.

Being short-haired, grooming is largely unnecessary with gerbils as they groom themselves fairly effectively, though nails may need checking. However, when handling them, take the opportunity to check skin, fur, ears, etc, for any health concerns.

Gerbil Cages

A glass aquarium or plastic cage is ideal, with closed sides to prevent debris being scattered beyond the cage boundaries and a secure but ventilated lid as gerbils are good jumpers thanks to their muscular back legs. Gerbils’ natural habitats are warm so while ventilation is good, draughts are not.

A small plastic cage should be kept in reserve for main cage cleaning or vet visits, etc. Water is best hung from the roof in a syringe-type or gravity-feeding arrangement. Gerbils do not need much water but being inquisitive will drag anything around the floor if the urge takes them. See “Gerbil Toys” below regarding what to include in the cage, but platforms and ladders can also be added to the list as further entertainment for the gerbil - and yourself as observer!

Gerbil Food

Gerbils’ nutrition requirements are well-known and commercial foods provide the right balance of a wide range of suitable ingredients. Food should be kept fresh, and hay is a suitable addition to the cage in samll quantities as it will  be consumed. Most gerbils will eat live food such as small crickets ansd mealworms but these whould be used more as an occasional treat rather then regularly fed, to maintain a balanced diet. Like rabbits and some other rodents, gerbils will re-ingest some of their droppings, in gerbils’ case to extract the right bacteria to further aid their digestion, so this is not to be discouraged.

Gerbil Toys

Aside from commercial toys, of which wheels and especially tunnels will be enthusiastically made use of, toilet roll canisters and small but safe cardboard boxes can also be used to create tunnels in the bedding material, which is often wood shavings. Be ready to buy replacement toys of any type as the gerbils will over time chew them to destruction; enjoy!

Whip Scorpion - an unusual pet

Although the large black emperor scorpion is more usually kept as a pet, the scorpion species are a very diverse group and amongst the various types the whip scorpion has some unique behaviors that make it an intriguing choice of pet.

The whip scorpion has a long thin tail, hence the term whip, from beneath the base of which it is able to squirt a strong acid when defending itself. The liquid is non-poisonous and is mainly acetic acid, strong-smelling and is the reason this species is sometimes known as the vinegarroon. The acid inflames skin and eyes. The whip scorpion’s main weapons are actually its claws, which are strong and can deliver a painful wound. These scorpions should be handled with jars, gloves or by using forceps, wrapped with padding around their edges, to get hold of the broad part of the body in front of the tail.

Keeping A Whip Scorpion

Whip scorpions are best housed separately in small terrariums of say 30×30x20 cm for a specimen of up to 120mm length. Use a secure, well-ventilated lid on top and a dry mixture of peat and sand as the base. Shelters under which the scorpion will hide itself throughout daylight hours should be made of stone and sprayed with water mist 2-3 times per week. Not much light is required and the whip scorpion is actually averse to it.

A shallow dish of water is required as most scorpions do drink a lot. Temperature needs to be above 25 degrees Centigrade and slightly lower at night; heat is usually administered to scorpion terrariums via heated panels in the base of the tank. Whip scorpions feed on insects including millipedes, grubs, crickets, cockroaches and small slugs and also newborn mice.

Whip Scorpion Mating And Breeding

The normal mating “dance” of other scorpions is carried out slightly differently by whip scorpions. The female is pulled around and behind the male as he shakes his whip tail and sperm is transferred through two stem-like structures. The male and female should be rehoused separately as soon as possible after mating.

After several weeks’ pregnancy, spraying the female’s shelter copiously with water simulates the wet season in their natural habitat and induces the white baby scorpions to hatch from the eggs beneath the female’s body, whereupon they will then climb onto her back. Around the time of the first shedding of their skins, the babies will move off separately and if required as additional pets, they should be housed separately and their diet supplemented with vitamins until they are adults.

Terrier care - grooming and diet

Terriers are fun dogs, full of energy and generally very hardy. Two common care topics are grooming the long-haired types and looking after the terrier’s diet.

Terrier Grooming

The variety of long-haired terriers can be broadly categorized into two types for grooming purposes. This is because they require different grooming techniques, which can be outlined as:

• The long soft coat of the Yorkshire Terrier or Skye Terrier needs regular brushing, and for non-show dogs, clipping the length of fur that hangs down its sides is necessary to prevent it dragging on the ground. Show dogs are usually stripped with a stripping knife, moving in the direction of the fur growth to remove dead hairs, then older hair plucked with one hand while holding the skin down with the other.
• Airedale Terriers and the wire-haired types are clipped, again in the direction of growth, around the terrier’s head moving down its back towards the tail. Then the chest and outside of the legs and thighs can be clipped, and the inside of the thighs after that on relevant breeds such as the Miniature Schnauzer. Finally, the ears and muzzle can be trimmed before tidying up eyebrows, etc, with small scissors. Thinning shears and wire-toothed combs, used with care to undo matted and tangled fur, help speed up the process.

Terrier Diet

A recommended general approach to dog diets is explained here click here.

Individual terriers will have their own idiosyncrasies and there are a wide range of terrier breeds, but for terriers, the staple meat ingredient of chicken, beef or lamb is most relevant, with dry kibble to complement it. However, raw foods are usually less of an option with terriers as they are prone to no digesting food especially well, which leads in some cases to stomach problems which in turn can be serious in the smaller breeds. Again, though its a generalisation, terriers can be less amenable or suited by vegetables than most breeds.

Snake Care

Small snakes are relatively easy to care for, making them low-maintenance pets. Milk snakes, as an example, are brightly-coloured because they have the same colours as larger, more dangerous snakes to protect themselves in the wild, so the colours are attractive as a pet snake.

Snakes use their tongue to sense what is around them, so that the flicking of the tongue in and out of their mouths is completely normal and not a reason for alarm.  Snakes have poor eyesight and poor if any hearing so the tongue-flicking is a vital activity.

If handling the snake, support the snake along the length of its body and not by its neck or tail to avoid breaking bones and causing serious damage. Many snakes, especially the smaller pet varieties, can be conditioned over time to handling by feeding them after handling. Snake handling should only be done rarely as a general practice as it can damage the snake skin.

Snake food varies by type from earthworms for many of the smaller types, through to small rodents and lizards for the larger types. The prey can be live or recently-killed and can be kept frozen, though fresh prey is advisable. Snakes usually only need to be fed once per week, but this should be checked when acquiring a new snake as there are variations.

Snakes are usually best kept in tanks often known as terrariums, with tree bark on the floor and a secure lid, often with lighting though heat is best administered through a heater panel under the floor of the terrarium so that the snake can lie in a warm or cooler area when required. When feeding the snake, it is a good idea to put it on paper so that none of the surrounding material is digested as well, which could cause problems.

Snakes slough, or shed their skin, less frequently as they grow older. Humid surroundings are especially advisable during these periods to help the skin shed.

As a general rule, though there are exceptions, keep snakes separate. They live solitary lives in the wild except for mating; left together for any length of time one may well be eaten by the other!

Dog - Spaniel Grooming & Health

Spaniels, whether they be Cocker Spaniels, Springer Spaniels, Cavalier King Charles Spaniels or any other spaniel breed, are great, fun-loving pets but their lengthy hair, whether it be ringlets, feathers or sleek and silky, takes a lot of grooming. With most spaniel breeds you can expect to be brushing these active dogs, cleaning them up, splitting mats and tangles and the like on most days or at least every other day. All of them need a regular trim every four to six weeks and some of the larger gundog types, being outdoor by nature, can shed their coat all year round. All that said, by keeping on top of a spaniel’s with gentle combing, it is not too much of a chore and provides an opportunity to bond and play with your dog.

These sessions should also be used to check their ears and eyes. Spaniels can be prone to ear infections because the ears can pick up debris of all types which might lead to ear mites and other nuisances.

The eyes should be checked as well because, while the toy breeds have a bulbous shape that can get injured, both the toy and sporting breeds can exhibit tear staining, which at its worst needs the vet’s attention but can often be overcome by wiping them gently with cold tea, used tea bags or witch hazel; different individual dogs will react better to one or the other dependent on the cause.

The short snouts of toy breeds such as the King Charles Spaniel (or English Toy Spaniel, to give it its official name) and the Tibetan Spaniel are reminiscent of the Pug and the natural wrinkles in the skin can get infected if not kept clean.

With all these types of dog, keeping the amount they eat in check is advisable as they are prone to obesity and consequent health problems later if not getting enough exercise.

Hamster - Care and Keeping

Pet hamsters come in a wide variety of colours such as the Syrian Hamster and even sizes, given the advent of dwarf hamsters such as the Russian Hamster and Roborovski Hamster. They are all primarily nocturnal but some types can also be active during the day. The different types exhibit different behaviors, some are more amenable to handling while some are more likely than others to bite on occasion and several types are best kept separately so a little research is worthwhile if you are considering one of the lesser-known varieties.

Hamster Care

The main concern with many hamsters, especially the larger types, is to keep them active when they are awake and not to overfeed them as they will become obese which is dangerous to their health and will shorten their lives considerably. Longer-haired varieties need grooming with a brush while even the short-haired breeds moult and so are best wiped down regularly with a slightly damp cloth to remove loosening and dead hair.

Hamster Food

Commercial hamster food, whether in mix or pellet form, should be supplemented with small pieces of apple or green vegetable and this will be satisfactory. Supplements of vitamin or mineral can be added to the fruit when required. From this standpoint hamsters are low-maintenance but care must be taken to check that food has been eaten and not simply hidden away in the bedding as hamsters tend to do, as it may rot and/or lead to infection.

Hamster Cages

Plastic cages or wire cages with plastic additions that simulate tunnels are enjoyed by pet hamsters. If using plastic, these parts should be checked regularly to make sure that the hamster hasn’t chewed through fastenings. Syrian hamsters in particular have this tendency. The other drawback with all-plastic cages is that they do allow more build-up of condensation and heat. Their advantages include better protection from draughts and they also retain all the bedding that might escape other forms of cage.

Hamster Toys

In addition to the traditional hamster wheel which in a hamster’s case is better being of the more enclosed variety with at least one solid side, it is a good idea to include other entertainment for your pet hamster to encourage exercise. Various forms of “cage within a cage” in the forms of plastic tube combinations which can be changed into new shapes periodically or nest-like toys allow your pet to be curious and/or burrow if he is of the appropriate type.

Axolotl - Facts & care information

The axolotl is a very unusual amphibian which originates from Mexico. The white or albino aloxotl is the most common form kept as a pet in an aquarium. Its unusual features include:

• Axolotls can breed before they are adults, from about six months old. This capability is known as neotony.
• In normal circumstances, axolotls never really mature into their full adult form, as in their natural habitat this would only happen in order to survive. For example, if the water in which it is living dries up, then it would lose its gills in order to breathe on land, like more normal maturing salamanders.
• Axolotls produce thyroxine. When stressed, e.g. through heat or changing water acidity or reduction in the amount of water surrounding it, this growth hormone is the cause 0f the change to the adult form.
• Axolotls can regenerate damaged limbs given a clean environment, though not always perfectly. Again, shallow water encourages this re-growth.

Axolotl Care

Axolotls are a fairly low-maintenance pet which will normally be housed in water for the duration of their lives, which would usually be about 12 years but has been known to be considerably longer.

A large tank with a cover is the most suitable environment, and a fairly basic setup is good as they are both a predator and can be aggressive. Plastic plants fare better than the natural variety which often get demolished in fairly short order. Large pebbles or even small rocks, if kept clean, are ideal for showing their long tails off as they rest on the stones. Some care should be taken; the stones shouldn’t be placed where they can be dislodged and fall onto the aloxotl, either by the pet itself or when cleaning the tank.

Aloxotls eat meat, best fed in quite small pieces, so a separate feeding tank with a bare floor is recommended. Lighting helps the display of the pet, but from underneath or one side of the tank to reduce heat.

Water should be dechlorinated. Cold tap water left to stand for two days or so is fine. The water will need to be changed regularly, but an air filter should also be considered as it will help reduce the frequency of the change. Dechlorinated water should also be used to clean the inside of the tank and anything inside it, as commercial cleaners are often dangerous to most forms of exotic pets.

Many pet axolotls live a solitary life with no problems, but two or more can often be kept in the same tank if it is large enough. If breeding, a separate tank will definitely be required!

Russell Terrier care

Russell Terriers are actually two different breeds in most countries but there are mixes of the two as well. The Parson Russell Terrier, from about twelve inches in height, is taller than the Jack Russell Terrier. Bred for hunting originally, they are very energetic and need plenty of exercise. They also benefit from a lot of variety as most of any behavioral problems with this breed arise from being bored. Although they are a loyal and friendly pet, they usually do not enjoy too much cuddling or being still for any length of time.  For help with training a Jack Russell or Parson Russell terrier, click here.

Grooming A Jack Russell or Parson Russell Terrier

Both breeds have two coat varieties, a smooth and a rough coat. Both are actually easy to groom, slightly more effort being required for rough coated, but the rough coat does not tangle so does not present the problems common to long-haired dog breeds.
The rough coat should be harsh, as it protects against cold and/or wet environments. Many owners of rough coated Russell Terriers like to pursue the idea of stripping the rough coat, especially for showing. While the coat is shedding, this can be done using a stripping knife or by plucking out dead hair by gripping it between finger and thumb. This does not affect the dog because it is during the shedding season and much of the hair is naturally more loose at this time.

Other Aspects of Care

There is nothing particularly different about bathing, dental care, eye and ear care, nails, etc., for a Russell Terrier from any other dog, except that, given the independent traits that these breeds exhibit more than many others, which with these can become a habit very quickly, it is clearly best to start as soon as possible. You can also expect to have to be more persistent and patient with these feisty dogs before they become the great pets they should be!

Pet Rats

Rats make interesting pets. They are intelligent, learning how to solve puzzles based on food and this can be used to train them to show their dexterity and versatility in performing a variety of tasks.

They are very sociable and like to interact with their owners, enjoying being held if used to it from being young and enjoy being played with. Rats are also very sociable with each other and it is common for more than one to be kept in the same cage as pets.

Although white rats are the most popular as pets, as they have gained in popularity a wide variety of colours have become available and so classification systems have been developed to establish quality breeding standards.

Rat food

Rats will eat almost anything but care should be taken to give them a balanced diet to keep them healthy. They love fruit and vegetables (potatoes in any form are a favourite) but this should be balanced with a good amount of rat food. The kibble type of rat food, similar to dry dog food is especially useful as often it is hard which both helps check the continuous growth of the rat’s teeth as well as indulging one of their favourite activities, chewing.

Vitamin supplements are also useful to help maintain your rat’s health. These are often supplied in a liquid form so that they can be added to your pet’s drinking water.

Rat health

Domesticated rats are usually good at keeping clean and if they are provided with a clean environment, good diet and maintained at a reasonably stable temperature, they will thrive.

The rat’s coat provides the best guide to its health. It should be sleek and shiny. As the owner, it is worth keeping a daily watch on your pet’s condition. Excessive scratching or the appearance of bald patches or scabs, listlessness and dull eyes, tilting of the head to one side, mucous or excessive sneezing are some indications of possible illness. If you lack experience with rats, a trip to the vet will be required.

Problems with the rat’s fur are often mites or lice which can be treated. An allergy can also be the cause, which again can be diagnosed and treated. Infections of various types are also fairly easily treated if diagnosed early enough. Hence the need to observe them regularly.

Generally though, rats make a healthy, active and enjoyable pet.

Rabbit Care - Fur and Nails

Grooming your pet rabbit’s fur and nails is good for five reasons:

1. It helps it stay clean and healthy,
2. It improves its appearance,
3. It helps keep the loose fur down to a minimum,
4. It keeps the nails down to help prevent infection in cracks, etc,
5. It reduces the possibility of it swallowing loose fur which can cause serious problems with its delicate digestive system.

Brushing and Cleaning Fur

Your rabbit will do some grooming itself, but it is worth supplementing and it provides the opportunity for you to check its skin for sores or lesions.

The right frequency for brushing will vary with the breed and normal length of the fur, from weekly being normal down to daily for very long-haired breeds such as Angora rabbits.

Rabbit skin is quite delicate and any sores can get licked by the rabbit causing infection, so some care is needed. A brush specifically for bruishing rabbits, with plastic bristles or the rubber groomer type are best. When the rabbit is shedding its fur a fine comb, but not a metal type, is useful. Long fur can be trimmed carefully if necessary.

Mats in the fur are best not cut out if possible and only then with care. It is advisable to try and comb or brush them out, with the help of an “orange and oil” type of commercial spray and water for mats or anything stuck in the fur. Its also worth drying any moisture off to prevent more debris sticking to it.

Clipping Nails

Rabbits are unlikely to take kindly to nails being clipped, even if they ever get used to it. You may need assistance to hold your rabbit. A good practical idea is to restrain the rabbit by wrapping it in a towel with all the equipment you need close at hand.

It best to use small nail-trimmers, ideally of the scissor kind as clippers don’t work well on relatively small feet or on the rabbit’s nail configuration. You must avoid cutting the quick, which if cut is painful for the rabbit, bleeds profusely and can get infected especially if the rabbit breaks free and steps on it. The quick is the blood vessel and can be avoided best by:

• wetting the nail will tend to contrast the quick to the rest of the nail, especially with dark-coloured nails 
• holding the foot and clipping from underneath the nail, which allows you to better see the quick
• only trim very small amounts at a time, firmly and as speedily as possible without rushing

If you do cut the quick by accident, speedily apply some styptic powder (a sulphur compound) which should stop the bleeding almost immediately. This can be repeated if necessary and move on. Restrain the rabbit for a few minutes after the bleeding has stopped.

It may be necessary to do all the nails over more than one session depending on your rabbit, but overall and with practice it won’t take too long.